Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
Continuing from the previous entry, the Procession/Benediction service takes place at 4 PM on Sundays, and is the climactic service of the weekend for parishes who make the Friday-Sunday pilgrimage during the season. With me in the services Saturday and Sunday were pilgrims from:
St. Alban, Birmingham
St. Chad, Stafford
St. Paul, Croxteth, Liverpool
All Saints, Northfleet, Gravesend, Kent
Parishes of Cheam, Surrey
St. Alban, Ilford, Essex
Holy Trinity, Amblecote, Stourbridge, Worcs.
St. Barnabas, Tunbridge Wells, Kent
St. Peter, Horbury, Wakefield, W. Yorks.
...so a big shout out to anyone from those parishes who might stumble across this site!
Here's the run down on the service, which was quite similar to the previous day's but with a different thing being processed.
"Get your Real Presence ON at the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, Little Walsingham, Norfolk
Denomination: Church of England
The building: The Shrine Church (described in the 10 May entry).
The cast: Fr. Philip North (Administrator of the Shrine), about 6 assisting presbyters, looked like 2 deacons, 2 torches, 1 crucifer, 2 thurifers, and someone I dubbed The Parasol Dude. The Parasol Dude's role was to walk behind Fr. North, who was carrying the monstrance, and hold an ornate parasol-like thing over it during the outdoor procession. As you might imagine, this required some serious coordination to avoid collisions.
The date & time: Sunday, 11 May 2008, 4:00 PM
What was the name of the service? Procession of the Host and Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament
How full was the building? As with yesterday, 150 or so, which filled the church to overflowing. I was able to get a decent seat by arriving 45 minutes ahead of the start time.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Good afternoon."
What books did the congregation use during the service? The "Walsingham Pilgrim Manual." (See 10 May.) I much preferred "Lauda Sion" to Saturday's hymn...I do like my Aquinas.
What musical instruments were played? Organ.
Did anything distract you? Like yesterday, nothing at all.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? I thought it was transcendent (again) but others might find it a bit much for their taste.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Singing "Crown Him with many crowns" as the monstrance was returned to the tabernacle.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? (again) Nothing.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 9, but only because you can't make it a regular thing, for obvious reasons. I would want to be in a parish with the sorts of people I met, though, that's for sure.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes. It made me glad to be an Anglo-Catholic Christian as well!
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The huge monstrance and the Parasol Dude.
In summation, Walsingham certainly isn't for everyone. If Marian devotion makes you feel weird, you'll definitely be icked out here. But, as Fr. North says quite eloquently on the web site, it's all about getting a grip on what Marian devotion actually _is_ and what it _isn't._ For me it's about the mystery of the Incarnation...the specific, fleshy _reality_ of God-with-us. And, as for Benediction, former Archbishop of York David Hope has a good take on it when he says that Benediction is a way of slowing down and appreciating what actually happens during the Eucharist. Sort of a super-slo-mo look at the Real Presence.
Again, for me, these are things well worth doing. But I never claimed to be Low Church anyway! :-)
Sunday, June 1, 2008
Sunday, May 11, 2008
11 May 2008 - Feast of Pentecost (post saved until after return)
From here on out, it became far too difficult to blog in real-time since my internet connections were either slow or non-existent, and since I really didn't want to waste too much time trying to write and post polished efforts. So, I kept notes and pictures locally on my laptop and will be posting regularly now that I am back. Sorry for the delay, and I hope you enjoy what's coming soon!
Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
Exploring Norwich (and Norwich Cathedral), and back to Walsingham for Round II
The Holy Spirit arrived in a fairly big way today, with an Anglican 2-fer and an interlude of walking one of the most famous, but underrated, pilgrimage roads in England. Sunday morning was very quiet, but walking through the city center of Norwich towards the Cathedral I was treated to volleys of bells coming from every parish in town. (There must be a church about every 200 yards or so in the "downtown" area, and they were all ringing...) It turned out that many of the people who were in the area at that time were headed the same way I was, so I followed the flow of pedestrian traffic heading towards the bend in the River Wensum.
The spire of the Cathedral is famous for its height - and it is a good landmark to navigate by for walking.
I will confess that in this picture I was attempting to channel Elizabeth Matheson, with her wonderful talent for photographing curves in a landscape!
A number of pictures from the interior of the Cathedral and of Norwich in general, along with maps and so forth, can be found at: Tour Norfolk, and also the Wikipedia entry for the Cathedral.
I attended the principal Sunday service at Norwich Cathedral, which was a sung Eucharist to primarily observe Pentecost, but also to commemorate the culmination of the Norfolk and Norwich Festival - the yearly major arts festival that takes place in the city and surrounding county.
"Remembering our Baptism at Norwich Cathedral"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, Norwich, Norfolk
Denomination: Church of England
The building: Norwich Cathedral is famous for its Romanesque style and soaring spire. 900 years old, it was the site of a thriving Benedictine community until the 16th C. Its ties to the OSB continue, though, as the identity of today's guest preacher attests. (He holds the status of Titular Prior of Norwich.) Much of the stone for the Cathedral was imported from Caen in France, which adds to its Continental look.
The cast: The Rt. Rev. Graham James, Bishop of Norwich, celebrant, Dom Henry Wansbrough, OSB (Ampleforth Abbey), guest preacher, musical participants as listed below, and assorted assisting clergy, acolytes, readers, etc. It was a big service, for sure. Sadly for me, no thurifer.
The date & time: Sunday, 11 May 2008, 11:00 AM
What was the name of the service? Norfolk and Norwich Festival Sung Eucharist
How full was the building? 400? 500? I am no good at counting in large churches.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Good morning."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Service leaflet with hymn texts and prayers.
What musical instruments were played? Organ with some wind and string accompaniment by the Norwich Cathedral Players, who were very good. The service setting used was Haydn's St. Nicholas Mass, and the choir was under the direction of choirmaster David Lowe.
Did anything distract you? The 2 or 3 18-year-old folks right behind me chatting continuously for 20 minutes before the service.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Is there such a thing as "bog-standard Cathedral Festal Mass?" I guess not...but it was a smooth, well-done, middle-of-the-road service. No surprises here.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The Mass setting was certainly glorious, but honestly I most enjoyed hearing the chatty young people behind me belting out "Come down, O Love divine."
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? All the pre-service noise.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Being sprinkled by the Bishop as he processed from the Font, and a line from the sermon: "No one has ever been converted to Christianity solely by instruction."
Norwich, like many places in England, had a problem in the 17th century with the Puritans. (This will be a running theme throughout the rest of my blog posts from the trip, as you will later see.) In 1643 a Puritan mob sacked the Cathedral and did their usual Puritan mob thing, as described by Joseph Hall, the understandably furious Bishop:
"It is tragical to relate the furious sacrilege committed under the authority of Linsey, Tofts the sheriff, and Greenwood: what clattering of glasses, what beating down of walls, what tearing down of monuments, what pulling down of seats, and wresting out of irons and brass from the windows and graves; what defacing of arms, what demolishing of curious stone-work, that had not any representation in the world but of the cost of the founder and skill of the mason; what piping on the destroyed organ-pipes; vestments, both copes and surplices, together with the leaden cross which had been newly sawed down from over the greenyard pulpit, and the singing-books and service-books, were carried to the fire in the public market-place; a lewd wretch walking before the train in his cope trailing in the dirt, with a service-book in his hand, imitating in an impious scorn the tune, and usurping the words of the litany. The ordnance being discharged on the guild-day, the cathedral was filled with musketeers, drinking and tobacconing as freely as if it had turned ale-house."
(Of course, the problems would only become worse, as 2 years later Archbishop Laud, of blessed memory, would be beheaded by other "lewd wretches.")
After lunch, it was back to Walsingham again for the second service I would attend here, but first it was time for a bit of walking. The last mile of the ancient pilgrimage route to Walsingham is called the "Holy Mile," though it is more like a mile and a half. The "Slipper Chapel" at the start of the Holy Mile is where pilgrims used to remove their shoes (thus the name) and walk barefoot to the Shrine. Today the Slipper Chapel serves as the RC Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, which sets up an odd situation. While walking _out_ from the village to the Slipper Chapel, I was passed by a procession of RC's with THEIR statue of OLW, heading in the opposite direction towards the village, though where they were going when they got there, I have no clue. So within a mile of each other there are 2 completely separate entities playing a centuries-long game of "my Marian devotion is bigger/purer than yours."
The road (really more of a paved footpath) about half way along the "Holy Mile" between the Slipper Chapel (now the RC Shrine) and the Anglican Shrine in the village itself comes to this fork - and thankfully, a place to sit down.
Most of the way along the Holy Mile, the narrow road is surrounded with wildflowers on both sides. Very Marian, eh?
The road primarily follows the path of a stream, where this duck family was going about its business.
From the same spot in the opposite direction was this bridge which carried another footpath over the stream. I wonder how many people over the last thousand years have stopped at this point, as I did, to cool off their feet at the ford.
The tiny Slipper Chapel surrounded by the grounds of the RC shrine.
After all that walking, out to the Slipper Chapel and back again, it was a relief to finally reach the village. Coming into the village, along the "main drag" is the gate to the site of the former Priory of Our Lady of Walsingham. Note that the statues over the gate are missing, and have been since 1538.
At the primary intersection is the location of the old pump.
Another shot of the Priory Gate.
The service at the Shrine could best be described as an extended-dance-mix Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament. No preaching this time - instead it launched right into the procession after the opening hymn and Collect. For this one, the HUGE monstrance containing the Body of Christ is processed around the gardens outside the Shrine as everyone sings the Thomas Aquinas hymn, _Lauda Sion_. The procession then returns to the church for the actual Benediction. (Continued in next post.)
Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
Exploring Norwich (and Norwich Cathedral), and back to Walsingham for Round II
The Holy Spirit arrived in a fairly big way today, with an Anglican 2-fer and an interlude of walking one of the most famous, but underrated, pilgrimage roads in England. Sunday morning was very quiet, but walking through the city center of Norwich towards the Cathedral I was treated to volleys of bells coming from every parish in town. (There must be a church about every 200 yards or so in the "downtown" area, and they were all ringing...) It turned out that many of the people who were in the area at that time were headed the same way I was, so I followed the flow of pedestrian traffic heading towards the bend in the River Wensum.
The spire of the Cathedral is famous for its height - and it is a good landmark to navigate by for walking.
I will confess that in this picture I was attempting to channel Elizabeth Matheson, with her wonderful talent for photographing curves in a landscape!
A number of pictures from the interior of the Cathedral and of Norwich in general, along with maps and so forth, can be found at: Tour Norfolk, and also the Wikipedia entry for the Cathedral.
I attended the principal Sunday service at Norwich Cathedral, which was a sung Eucharist to primarily observe Pentecost, but also to commemorate the culmination of the Norfolk and Norwich Festival - the yearly major arts festival that takes place in the city and surrounding county.
"Remembering our Baptism at Norwich Cathedral"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Cathedral Church of the Holy and Undivided Trinity, Norwich, Norfolk
Denomination: Church of England
The building: Norwich Cathedral is famous for its Romanesque style and soaring spire. 900 years old, it was the site of a thriving Benedictine community until the 16th C. Its ties to the OSB continue, though, as the identity of today's guest preacher attests. (He holds the status of Titular Prior of Norwich.) Much of the stone for the Cathedral was imported from Caen in France, which adds to its Continental look.
The cast: The Rt. Rev. Graham James, Bishop of Norwich, celebrant, Dom Henry Wansbrough, OSB (Ampleforth Abbey), guest preacher, musical participants as listed below, and assorted assisting clergy, acolytes, readers, etc. It was a big service, for sure. Sadly for me, no thurifer.
The date & time: Sunday, 11 May 2008, 11:00 AM
What was the name of the service? Norfolk and Norwich Festival Sung Eucharist
How full was the building? 400? 500? I am no good at counting in large churches.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Good morning."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Service leaflet with hymn texts and prayers.
What musical instruments were played? Organ with some wind and string accompaniment by the Norwich Cathedral Players, who were very good. The service setting used was Haydn's St. Nicholas Mass, and the choir was under the direction of choirmaster David Lowe.
Did anything distract you? The 2 or 3 18-year-old folks right behind me chatting continuously for 20 minutes before the service.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Is there such a thing as "bog-standard Cathedral Festal Mass?" I guess not...but it was a smooth, well-done, middle-of-the-road service. No surprises here.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The Mass setting was certainly glorious, but honestly I most enjoyed hearing the chatty young people behind me belting out "Come down, O Love divine."
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? All the pre-service noise.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Being sprinkled by the Bishop as he processed from the Font, and a line from the sermon: "No one has ever been converted to Christianity solely by instruction."
Norwich, like many places in England, had a problem in the 17th century with the Puritans. (This will be a running theme throughout the rest of my blog posts from the trip, as you will later see.) In 1643 a Puritan mob sacked the Cathedral and did their usual Puritan mob thing, as described by Joseph Hall, the understandably furious Bishop:
"It is tragical to relate the furious sacrilege committed under the authority of Linsey, Tofts the sheriff, and Greenwood: what clattering of glasses, what beating down of walls, what tearing down of monuments, what pulling down of seats, and wresting out of irons and brass from the windows and graves; what defacing of arms, what demolishing of curious stone-work, that had not any representation in the world but of the cost of the founder and skill of the mason; what piping on the destroyed organ-pipes; vestments, both copes and surplices, together with the leaden cross which had been newly sawed down from over the greenyard pulpit, and the singing-books and service-books, were carried to the fire in the public market-place; a lewd wretch walking before the train in his cope trailing in the dirt, with a service-book in his hand, imitating in an impious scorn the tune, and usurping the words of the litany. The ordnance being discharged on the guild-day, the cathedral was filled with musketeers, drinking and tobacconing as freely as if it had turned ale-house."
(Of course, the problems would only become worse, as 2 years later Archbishop Laud, of blessed memory, would be beheaded by other "lewd wretches.")
After lunch, it was back to Walsingham again for the second service I would attend here, but first it was time for a bit of walking. The last mile of the ancient pilgrimage route to Walsingham is called the "Holy Mile," though it is more like a mile and a half. The "Slipper Chapel" at the start of the Holy Mile is where pilgrims used to remove their shoes (thus the name) and walk barefoot to the Shrine. Today the Slipper Chapel serves as the RC Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, which sets up an odd situation. While walking _out_ from the village to the Slipper Chapel, I was passed by a procession of RC's with THEIR statue of OLW, heading in the opposite direction towards the village, though where they were going when they got there, I have no clue. So within a mile of each other there are 2 completely separate entities playing a centuries-long game of "my Marian devotion is bigger/purer than yours."
The road (really more of a paved footpath) about half way along the "Holy Mile" between the Slipper Chapel (now the RC Shrine) and the Anglican Shrine in the village itself comes to this fork - and thankfully, a place to sit down.
Most of the way along the Holy Mile, the narrow road is surrounded with wildflowers on both sides. Very Marian, eh?
The road primarily follows the path of a stream, where this duck family was going about its business.
From the same spot in the opposite direction was this bridge which carried another footpath over the stream. I wonder how many people over the last thousand years have stopped at this point, as I did, to cool off their feet at the ford.
The tiny Slipper Chapel surrounded by the grounds of the RC shrine.
After all that walking, out to the Slipper Chapel and back again, it was a relief to finally reach the village. Coming into the village, along the "main drag" is the gate to the site of the former Priory of Our Lady of Walsingham. Note that the statues over the gate are missing, and have been since 1538.
At the primary intersection is the location of the old pump.
Another shot of the Priory Gate.
The service at the Shrine could best be described as an extended-dance-mix Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament. No preaching this time - instead it launched right into the procession after the opening hymn and Collect. For this one, the HUGE monstrance containing the Body of Christ is processed around the gardens outside the Shrine as everyone sings the Thomas Aquinas hymn, _Lauda Sion_. The procession then returns to the church for the actual Benediction. (Continued in next post.)
10 May 2008 - Eve of Pentecost
Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
2300 BST
I went to the Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham for the first of the two "procession" services of the weekend. This one was the Procession of Our Lady of Walsingham (preceded by an Address/Homily and followed by Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament.) Now, I know not everyone is "into" Marian devotion - some may think it subtracts from focus on the Lordship of Jesus Christ. But I find that Anglican Marian devotion POINTS TO the Lordship of Jesus Christ and does so through a focus on the thing that "everyone" (whoever that is) says that Anglicans understand about as well as anyone: the Incarnation.
Walsingham is a beautiful village in the middle of nowhere, made all the more interesting by the fact that it is still focused on pilgrimage to the Shrine. It is one of those places where to be a Christian (and to be an Anglican Christian, at that) is a completely NORMAL thing. You don't have to explain why you're there - everyone else is there for the same thing. Clergy have no qualms about walking around in their cassocks there (which they would certainly never do in, say, central London!) Here are a few shots of the church and its environs.
Below is the Shrine Church of Our Lady of Walsingham ("OLW") looking towards the West door. It is, quite obviously, a 20th century construction.
At the intersection where the Shrine Church is located (90 degrees from previous picture), there is a fairly high wall on one side, with a crazy traffic control system since the road narrow. The sign says, essentially, "wait here if there is an oncoming car."
Walking through the village of Little Walsingham around the wall of the Shrine, which actually contains a complex of buildings including several small chapels, a refectory (with a very attractive bar on the ground floor!), and the education department, along with offices, etc.
A horticultural triumph in an unexpected place.
Many of the houses in the village have dates on the capstone over the door. This one is from the 18th C., but I later found another one from around 1650.
Anyway, the first part of the service involved a fairly vigorous homily from Fr. Philip North, who is the Administrator of the Shrine. Surprisingly, he is a young guy - I'd be surprised if he were older than I am. It being the Eve of Pentecost, he talked about the gift of the Holy Spirit and the disciples' confusion in being told they would receive it (in John.) What really hit me hard was his part about a particularly Anglo-Catholic pneumatology. The gift of the Holy Spirit is not for our personal enjoyment or security - it is to enable us to go into the world and be the hands and feet of Christ. Then, everyone lit their candles and the procession began: crucifer, two torches, two (TWO!) thurifers, about 6 priests, 2 brothers of an unidentified order, and the statue of OLW carried on the shoulders of four laymen of parishes on pilgrimages there. Everyone else followed, singing the VERY LONG "Walsingham Pilgrim Hymn." (Notable for its imprecatory verse against Henry VIII for sacking the original Shrine!) Everyone returned to the Shrine Church in an amazingly orderly fashion for Benediction, during which the incense was so thick it was impossible to see the top half of the church. It was an incredibly moving, incredibly reverent event.
"Anglo-Catholic, not spiky, at the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, Little Walsingham, Norfolk
Denomination: Church of England
The building: The Shrine Church (destroyed utterly in 1538) was rebuilt around 1930. It is fairly small (see below) but quite ornate on the inside.
The cast: Fr. Philip North, preacher and priest for Benediction, and many, many assisting clergy and laypeople.
The date & time: Saturday, 10 May 2008, 8:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Address, Procession of Our Lady of Walsingham, and Benediction
How full was the building? I would guess about 150-170, but it was PACKED! The Shrine Church is not that big, and probably has permanent seating for about 100. People were standing in the back, kids were sitting in the aisles...
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Welcome to this evening's liturgy."
What books did the congregation use during the service? The "Walsingham Pilgrim Manual" is purchased by every person going with their parish on a pilgrimage to the Shrine - it is a very helpful wire-bound book about the size of a pocket calendar which contains the words to all the hymns and the prayers for the (many) services.
What musical instruments were played? Organ.
Did anything distract you? NO.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Transcendent, nosebleed-high, Anglo-Catholicism.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Kneeling on the stone floor during Benediction and getting a serious sense of the Real Presence.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? Honestly? Nothing.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 9, but only because you can't make it a regular thing, for obvious reasons. I would want to be in a parish with the sorts of people I met, though, that's for sure.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? I don't think I'll forget any of it, to tell you the truth.
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
2300 BST
I went to the Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham for the first of the two "procession" services of the weekend. This one was the Procession of Our Lady of Walsingham (preceded by an Address/Homily and followed by Benediction of the Blessed Sacrament.) Now, I know not everyone is "into" Marian devotion - some may think it subtracts from focus on the Lordship of Jesus Christ. But I find that Anglican Marian devotion POINTS TO the Lordship of Jesus Christ and does so through a focus on the thing that "everyone" (whoever that is) says that Anglicans understand about as well as anyone: the Incarnation.
Walsingham is a beautiful village in the middle of nowhere, made all the more interesting by the fact that it is still focused on pilgrimage to the Shrine. It is one of those places where to be a Christian (and to be an Anglican Christian, at that) is a completely NORMAL thing. You don't have to explain why you're there - everyone else is there for the same thing. Clergy have no qualms about walking around in their cassocks there (which they would certainly never do in, say, central London!) Here are a few shots of the church and its environs.
Below is the Shrine Church of Our Lady of Walsingham ("OLW") looking towards the West door. It is, quite obviously, a 20th century construction.
At the intersection where the Shrine Church is located (90 degrees from previous picture), there is a fairly high wall on one side, with a crazy traffic control system since the road narrow. The sign says, essentially, "wait here if there is an oncoming car."
Walking through the village of Little Walsingham around the wall of the Shrine, which actually contains a complex of buildings including several small chapels, a refectory (with a very attractive bar on the ground floor!), and the education department, along with offices, etc.
A horticultural triumph in an unexpected place.
Many of the houses in the village have dates on the capstone over the door. This one is from the 18th C., but I later found another one from around 1650.
Anyway, the first part of the service involved a fairly vigorous homily from Fr. Philip North, who is the Administrator of the Shrine. Surprisingly, he is a young guy - I'd be surprised if he were older than I am. It being the Eve of Pentecost, he talked about the gift of the Holy Spirit and the disciples' confusion in being told they would receive it (in John.) What really hit me hard was his part about a particularly Anglo-Catholic pneumatology. The gift of the Holy Spirit is not for our personal enjoyment or security - it is to enable us to go into the world and be the hands and feet of Christ. Then, everyone lit their candles and the procession began: crucifer, two torches, two (TWO!) thurifers, about 6 priests, 2 brothers of an unidentified order, and the statue of OLW carried on the shoulders of four laymen of parishes on pilgrimages there. Everyone else followed, singing the VERY LONG "Walsingham Pilgrim Hymn." (Notable for its imprecatory verse against Henry VIII for sacking the original Shrine!) Everyone returned to the Shrine Church in an amazingly orderly fashion for Benediction, during which the incense was so thick it was impossible to see the top half of the church. It was an incredibly moving, incredibly reverent event.
"Anglo-Catholic, not spiky, at the Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Anglican Shrine of Our Lady of Walsingham, Little Walsingham, Norfolk
Denomination: Church of England
The building: The Shrine Church (destroyed utterly in 1538) was rebuilt around 1930. It is fairly small (see below) but quite ornate on the inside.
The cast: Fr. Philip North, preacher and priest for Benediction, and many, many assisting clergy and laypeople.
The date & time: Saturday, 10 May 2008, 8:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Address, Procession of Our Lady of Walsingham, and Benediction
How full was the building? I would guess about 150-170, but it was PACKED! The Shrine Church is not that big, and probably has permanent seating for about 100. People were standing in the back, kids were sitting in the aisles...
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Welcome to this evening's liturgy."
What books did the congregation use during the service? The "Walsingham Pilgrim Manual" is purchased by every person going with their parish on a pilgrimage to the Shrine - it is a very helpful wire-bound book about the size of a pocket calendar which contains the words to all the hymns and the prayers for the (many) services.
What musical instruments were played? Organ.
Did anything distract you? NO.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Transcendent, nosebleed-high, Anglo-Catholicism.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Kneeling on the stone floor during Benediction and getting a serious sense of the Real Presence.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? Honestly? Nothing.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 9, but only because you can't make it a regular thing, for obvious reasons. I would want to be in a parish with the sorts of people I met, though, that's for sure.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? I don't think I'll forget any of it, to tell you the truth.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
8-9 May 2008
Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
1624 BST
Must catch up a bit as last night was spent in travel until very late indeed, and then I have had to catch up on some sleep before heading over to Little Walsingham tonight.
Thursday the 8th was mostly spent in enjoyable but unremarkable pursuits involving the last bits of clothing replacement. I deeply regret spending any money to enrich the execrable Mr. Al Fayed, but unfortunately Harrods did have an easily findable selection of American boat shoes in ladies' sizes so that I could replace my L.L. Bean ones at twice the cost. (Not Bean's or Sperry's, sadly, but a close Timberland approximation.) Much happier was the recovery of my suit thanks to the talents of Matthew Leonard of Jay Leonard & Co. in the City. For any peeps who may be looking for very conservative, very well-cut suits in black, blue, or dark grey for less than you might expect, look up their web site. They do men's suits as well.
Friday the 9th was taken up during the day with a trip to the parish church of St. Magnus the Martyr in Lower Thames Street.
If you don't see this sign, you may never find the door to the church!
One interesting London phenomenon is that parishes have notice boards somewhere near the church where the local councilman's name is listed and so forth. A lot of times, vestry minutes are posted as well, and can make for interesting reading.
West door is under the arch to the left.
Looking along the east-west axis from beyond the east wall.
I actually took this from about the 4th floor of an office building, out on the mezzanine. The round windows have an amusing history - originally they were deep arch-type windows like you expect to see in churches, but 17th century sound pollution was a problem. Apparently the constant stream of obscenities coming from fishwives on this side of the church disturbed the congregation. The windows on the other side are still "normal" shaped.
"Inexplicable splendor at St. Magnus the Martyr"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Magnus the Martyr, Lower Thames Street, City of London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: Made semi-famous by former usher T. S. Eliot ("walls of Magnus Martyr hold/inexplicable splendor of Ionian white and gold"), it is stunning on the inside and unremarkable on the outside. The church, which used to stand prominently on the approach to the old London Bridge, has now been completely enveloped by the buildings and overpasses of the modern City. Like many other City churches, it burned in the Great Fire and was rebuilt. Then, in the early 20th century, it was "spiked up" considerably to, in the words of the rector, "make it look as if the Reformation never happened." The polychrome statue of St. Magnus, complete with horned helmet and battle axe, is really something to behold.
The cast: Celebrant: Fr. Philip Warner, rector (with Roman-style chasuble and biretta), and one adult acolyte (in cassock with a very lacy surplice.)
The date & time: Friday, 9 May 2008, 12:30 PM
What was the name of the service? Low Mass
How full was the building? Congregation of 5.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Laminated card with the congregational prayers and responses printed on it - they assume you know what you are doing!
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? Not at all. It was fabulous.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Nosebleed high, but not really spiky.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Fr. Warner can say a good mass, for sure. The whole thing was good.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? This wasn't during the service, but it was a pain to find the church in the first place as it is almost invisible.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 10. 11. Fits my churchmanship, and the rector is a really great guy. It is worth the trip into the City for anyone in Greater London.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Absolutely.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Smelling incense from outside the building.
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
1624 BST
Must catch up a bit as last night was spent in travel until very late indeed, and then I have had to catch up on some sleep before heading over to Little Walsingham tonight.
Thursday the 8th was mostly spent in enjoyable but unremarkable pursuits involving the last bits of clothing replacement. I deeply regret spending any money to enrich the execrable Mr. Al Fayed, but unfortunately Harrods did have an easily findable selection of American boat shoes in ladies' sizes so that I could replace my L.L. Bean ones at twice the cost. (Not Bean's or Sperry's, sadly, but a close Timberland approximation.) Much happier was the recovery of my suit thanks to the talents of Matthew Leonard of Jay Leonard & Co. in the City. For any peeps who may be looking for very conservative, very well-cut suits in black, blue, or dark grey for less than you might expect, look up their web site. They do men's suits as well.
Friday the 9th was taken up during the day with a trip to the parish church of St. Magnus the Martyr in Lower Thames Street.
If you don't see this sign, you may never find the door to the church!
One interesting London phenomenon is that parishes have notice boards somewhere near the church where the local councilman's name is listed and so forth. A lot of times, vestry minutes are posted as well, and can make for interesting reading.
West door is under the arch to the left.
Looking along the east-west axis from beyond the east wall.
I actually took this from about the 4th floor of an office building, out on the mezzanine. The round windows have an amusing history - originally they were deep arch-type windows like you expect to see in churches, but 17th century sound pollution was a problem. Apparently the constant stream of obscenities coming from fishwives on this side of the church disturbed the congregation. The windows on the other side are still "normal" shaped.
"Inexplicable splendor at St. Magnus the Martyr"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Magnus the Martyr, Lower Thames Street, City of London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: Made semi-famous by former usher T. S. Eliot ("walls of Magnus Martyr hold/inexplicable splendor of Ionian white and gold"), it is stunning on the inside and unremarkable on the outside. The church, which used to stand prominently on the approach to the old London Bridge, has now been completely enveloped by the buildings and overpasses of the modern City. Like many other City churches, it burned in the Great Fire and was rebuilt. Then, in the early 20th century, it was "spiked up" considerably to, in the words of the rector, "make it look as if the Reformation never happened." The polychrome statue of St. Magnus, complete with horned helmet and battle axe, is really something to behold.
The cast: Celebrant: Fr. Philip Warner, rector (with Roman-style chasuble and biretta), and one adult acolyte (in cassock with a very lacy surplice.)
The date & time: Friday, 9 May 2008, 12:30 PM
What was the name of the service? Low Mass
How full was the building? Congregation of 5.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Laminated card with the congregational prayers and responses printed on it - they assume you know what you are doing!
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? Not at all. It was fabulous.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Nosebleed high, but not really spiky.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Fr. Warner can say a good mass, for sure. The whole thing was good.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? This wasn't during the service, but it was a pain to find the church in the first place as it is almost invisible.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 10. 11. Fits my churchmanship, and the rector is a really great guy. It is worth the trip into the City for anyone in Greater London.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Absolutely.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Smelling incense from outside the building.
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
7 May 2008 - Happy Birthday, Mom !!
Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2330 BST
I want to wish my Mom, who I know looks at this page sometimes, a very happy birthday, and no, I won't say how old you are! (And happy Mother's Day, too, even though I think that's more of a scam by the greeting card industry than an actual occasion.) Be on the lookout for a smallish package.
Not much in the way of pictures from today, as a good bit of time was spent finishing the process of replacing the stuff British Airways lost. However, this morning I did have an extremely intense time at St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's is not my favorite building - I find that with all the marble it is like trying to worship God in an enormous, cavernous bathroom. A luxurious bathroom, with good acoustics, but it still feels cold to me. I do have one picture of John Wesley (in statue form) in one of the gardens surrounding St. Paul's:
What to say about +Richard Chartres, the current Bishop of London? I find that I agree with him on several things, but his ordination policies are...extremely unhelpful. Given that, though, it's obvious that "Dickie C.'s" cathedral is a serious place with serious people working there. The Canons and staff say Morning Prayer at 7:30 each morning followed by the Eucharist at 8 - SHOCK HORROR! THEY ACTUALLY OBSERVE THEIR ORDINATION VOWS!
"The Big Kids' Table at St. Paul's Cathedral"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Paul's Cathedral, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building:
The cast: Celebrant: the Rt. Rev. Michael Colclough, Canon Pastor of St. Paul's and former Bishop of Kensington and 2 young (female!!) acolytes
The date & time: Wednesday, 7 May 2008, 8:00 AM
What was the name of the service? Holy Communion
How full was the building? "Congregation" of about 18, although the majority were clergy in cassocks.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Reusable booklet reprinted from the C of E's Common Worship, though no one really needed to look at it.
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? No.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very quiet, very serious.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The absolute silence in such a cavernous space.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The bit during the overly-long Prayers when the celebrant prayed "for the cleansing of the Church," and it felt as if that sentiment was aimed directly across the Atlantic, though perhaps a bit north-by-east of Carolina... :-)
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 6. The architecture, again, is something of a loser in my view, but it's obvious that they are more sacramentally-focused today than in the 17th C.! It seems the sort of place that would be a blast to be a verger at, but not so great to be a member at. I really like the Canon Precentor, Lucy Plunkett, who was at the morning's service.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Not so much glad as _impressed._
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The (unnamed) minor canon kneeling on the stone floor for 15 minutes between Morning Prayer and the Mass.
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2330 BST
I want to wish my Mom, who I know looks at this page sometimes, a very happy birthday, and no, I won't say how old you are! (And happy Mother's Day, too, even though I think that's more of a scam by the greeting card industry than an actual occasion.) Be on the lookout for a smallish package.
Not much in the way of pictures from today, as a good bit of time was spent finishing the process of replacing the stuff British Airways lost. However, this morning I did have an extremely intense time at St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's is not my favorite building - I find that with all the marble it is like trying to worship God in an enormous, cavernous bathroom. A luxurious bathroom, with good acoustics, but it still feels cold to me. I do have one picture of John Wesley (in statue form) in one of the gardens surrounding St. Paul's:
What to say about +Richard Chartres, the current Bishop of London? I find that I agree with him on several things, but his ordination policies are...extremely unhelpful. Given that, though, it's obvious that "Dickie C.'s" cathedral is a serious place with serious people working there. The Canons and staff say Morning Prayer at 7:30 each morning followed by the Eucharist at 8 - SHOCK HORROR! THEY ACTUALLY OBSERVE THEIR ORDINATION VOWS!
"The Big Kids' Table at St. Paul's Cathedral"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Paul's Cathedral, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building:
The cast: Celebrant: the Rt. Rev. Michael Colclough, Canon Pastor of St. Paul's and former Bishop of Kensington and 2 young (female!!) acolytes
The date & time: Wednesday, 7 May 2008, 8:00 AM
What was the name of the service? Holy Communion
How full was the building? "Congregation" of about 18, although the majority were clergy in cassocks.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Reusable booklet reprinted from the C of E's Common Worship, though no one really needed to look at it.
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? No.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very quiet, very serious.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The absolute silence in such a cavernous space.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The bit during the overly-long Prayers when the celebrant prayed "for the cleansing of the Church," and it felt as if that sentiment was aimed directly across the Atlantic, though perhaps a bit north-by-east of Carolina... :-)
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 6. The architecture, again, is something of a loser in my view, but it's obvious that they are more sacramentally-focused today than in the 17th C.! It seems the sort of place that would be a blast to be a verger at, but not so great to be a member at. I really like the Canon Precentor, Lucy Plunkett, who was at the morning's service.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Not so much glad as _impressed._
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The (unnamed) minor canon kneeling on the stone floor for 15 minutes between Morning Prayer and the Mass.
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
6 May 2008
Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
0030 BST
Returning to the Westminster area, this time by tube instead of by cab, I went ahead and took the obligatory tourist photo that everyone else does. Didn't linger long, though, as more interesting things were in store.
Again, I think everyone has seen pictures of Westminster Abbey before, but here's one of the north porch.
I figured that someone at the Abbey would know how to get to Wippell's, since it is nearby, but the first person I asked looked at me as if I were speaking Chinese. Someone else heard me trying to explain what Wippell's _was_, though, and came to my rescue with directions. It is absolutely non-obvious how to get there, and involves numerous zig-zagging passageways and narrow lanes. However, with persistence, I entered...THE C OF E GHETTO. SPCK, Church House, a number of book and "church-toy" stores, an outpost of SSJE...all in the same (obscure) area. This is more or less the entrance to the 'hood.
I had just been in the store for a while and didn't want to look like a dork taking a picture right up close, but the dark blue storefront in the shadows is Wippell's. The things that excite me... I still don't know what to think about Wippell's range of socks in liturgical colors. Yes, people, socks.
Several places in which to empty your bank account. You just don't see chasubles in shop windows every day. This particular display belongs to the fairly spiky Watts & Co.
Still in the 'hood. What you don't see in this picture were the hilarious teenage guys from the Westminster School. Three of them came out of a door, and one was apparently so surprised to see me that he tripped on the curb and almost fell over. Much mirth ensued. They were nice boys.
After much browsing and much buying (how I will get these books home, I have no clue) I went on to the "Square Mile" of the City of London proper. But here's the damage done so far, except for the present-type things which must remain surprises.
This was a fairly intense moment. Walking along from the tube station I saw what looked like part of a much older building, just sitting there in between several financial firms. Upon further investigation I found out what it was. Christ Church, Greyfriars was a Wren church, almost completely destroyed by firebombs in 1940. The west wall and clock tower remain, but the scorch marks are still clearly visible. The area of the former nave is being turned into a garden, and I was standing right by a plaque placed by Merrill Lynch to indicate the location of the east wall and altar, of which there is nothing left.
Today's church destination was one of the "City Parishes," Church of the Holy Sepulchre, usually called St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate. This large church has a number of interesting historical connections - these days, it is known as the "National Musicians' Church," and sponsors a bewildering array of recitals, etc., in what must be one of the most acoustically "live" spaces I have ever been in. The sound quality here is amazing - especially when compared to neo-Gothic churches in the US of similar proportions which usually cause that muddled sound. It is also the burial place of Capt. John Smith of Virginia fame, which was especially neat for me having formerly been a member of the "other John Smith parish," St. John's, Hampton, VA. On the right side of the nave is a window of three panels showing the three "little ships" of the Jamestown colonists. And, strangely enough, the needlepoint kneeler cushion for the chair next to me was a memorial to Christopher Newport (the "Newport News" guy.) Finally, it has a more grim connection as the church next to the former Newgate Prison where many unfortunate fellows spent the last days of their lives before they were hanged. In 1605, a public-minded brother in Christ named Robert Dowe endowed the parish with 50 pounds to cover the expenses of ringing the church bell on the morning of hangings and for "other services concerning condemned prisoners." A hand bell (displayed now in the back of the nave) was rung at midnight outside the condemned man's cell and the following charming verse was recited:
"All you that in the condemned hole do lie,
Prepare you, for tomorrow you shall die,
Watch all, and pray, the hour is drawing near,
That you before the Almighty must appear.
Examine well yourselves, in time repent,
That you may not to eternal flames be sent.
And when St. Sepulchre's bell in the morning tolls,
The Lord above have mercy on your souls.
PAST TWELVE O'CLOCK."
Which I'm sure was most reassuring. Here is the tower end of the church - couldn't get it in one frame!
And here is the rest of the nave.
The Viaduct Tavern next to Newgate. It was built over a number of cells from the notorious former prison, which may be reached through the cellar of the pub.
"What if they gave the perfect Evensong, and no one came? (at St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate)"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Newgate, London ("St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate")
Denomination: Church of England
The building: As described above, the largest parish church in the city of London, with amazing acoustics and brighter light through the windows than many churches of its type and age (dates from 1450 but was significantly rebuilt inside after the Great Fire.) The benefice dates from 1157.
The cast: The Rector (The Rev. Peter Mullen), 10 Choral Scholars (men and women), the unnamed organist, and a layperson who did just about everything else.
The date & time: Tuesday, 6 May 2008, 6:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? Practically empty - congregation of 9.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
What books did the congregation use during the service? It was straight BCP 1662, but reprinted in a small booklet along with the order for Communion.
What musical instruments were played? The Renatus Harris organ, rebuilt 1932 by Harrison & Harrison.
Did anything distract you? Just the guy a few rows in front of me who had a fairly severe neurological tic that seemed to keep him constantly moving. But that wasn't really distracting - glad he was there.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very correct, very elegant, but not pretentious at all.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Tallis, Tallis, Tallis! ("If ye love me, keep my commandments.")
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? It was saddening to see so few people there for such a marvellous - and carefully done - service.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 8. As a "City" church, they don't actually have Sunday services since no one lives in the parish boundaries. Other than that, it is a lovely place which clearly needs to be loved a bit more in return. Would love to pitch in if I could...though I'd NEVER make it in the choir!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes, but I fear for the future of places like this.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The charming older lady, June, who lit the candles, passed the plate, and greeted everyone on the way out. Very, very fine person.
Before I clock out, I did check the Cackylacky primary results, which seem to be turning out about as I had predicted. Obama did very well in the I-85 corridor (Charlotte, Concord, the Triad, the Triangle) and in eastern NC. The mountains went for Hillary except for Buncombe County (Asheville) which is the epicenter of all things crunchy. Very proud that we won Orange County!!! Also on the WRAL website was this you-can't-make-it-up story from Clayton:
"CLAYTON, N.C. — Police in Clayton are looking for a half-million dollars worth of stolen liquor, but they're not sure the thieves know what they took. According to police, a tractor-trailer was reported stolen from a lot behind a Bojangles' restaurant. Inside the trailer was an assortment of hard liquor. (...)"
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
0030 BST
Returning to the Westminster area, this time by tube instead of by cab, I went ahead and took the obligatory tourist photo that everyone else does. Didn't linger long, though, as more interesting things were in store.
Again, I think everyone has seen pictures of Westminster Abbey before, but here's one of the north porch.
I figured that someone at the Abbey would know how to get to Wippell's, since it is nearby, but the first person I asked looked at me as if I were speaking Chinese. Someone else heard me trying to explain what Wippell's _was_, though, and came to my rescue with directions. It is absolutely non-obvious how to get there, and involves numerous zig-zagging passageways and narrow lanes. However, with persistence, I entered...THE C OF E GHETTO. SPCK, Church House, a number of book and "church-toy" stores, an outpost of SSJE...all in the same (obscure) area. This is more or less the entrance to the 'hood.
I had just been in the store for a while and didn't want to look like a dork taking a picture right up close, but the dark blue storefront in the shadows is Wippell's. The things that excite me... I still don't know what to think about Wippell's range of socks in liturgical colors. Yes, people, socks.
Several places in which to empty your bank account. You just don't see chasubles in shop windows every day. This particular display belongs to the fairly spiky Watts & Co.
Still in the 'hood. What you don't see in this picture were the hilarious teenage guys from the Westminster School. Three of them came out of a door, and one was apparently so surprised to see me that he tripped on the curb and almost fell over. Much mirth ensued. They were nice boys.
After much browsing and much buying (how I will get these books home, I have no clue) I went on to the "Square Mile" of the City of London proper. But here's the damage done so far, except for the present-type things which must remain surprises.
This was a fairly intense moment. Walking along from the tube station I saw what looked like part of a much older building, just sitting there in between several financial firms. Upon further investigation I found out what it was. Christ Church, Greyfriars was a Wren church, almost completely destroyed by firebombs in 1940. The west wall and clock tower remain, but the scorch marks are still clearly visible. The area of the former nave is being turned into a garden, and I was standing right by a plaque placed by Merrill Lynch to indicate the location of the east wall and altar, of which there is nothing left.
Today's church destination was one of the "City Parishes," Church of the Holy Sepulchre, usually called St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate. This large church has a number of interesting historical connections - these days, it is known as the "National Musicians' Church," and sponsors a bewildering array of recitals, etc., in what must be one of the most acoustically "live" spaces I have ever been in. The sound quality here is amazing - especially when compared to neo-Gothic churches in the US of similar proportions which usually cause that muddled sound. It is also the burial place of Capt. John Smith of Virginia fame, which was especially neat for me having formerly been a member of the "other John Smith parish," St. John's, Hampton, VA. On the right side of the nave is a window of three panels showing the three "little ships" of the Jamestown colonists. And, strangely enough, the needlepoint kneeler cushion for the chair next to me was a memorial to Christopher Newport (the "Newport News" guy.) Finally, it has a more grim connection as the church next to the former Newgate Prison where many unfortunate fellows spent the last days of their lives before they were hanged. In 1605, a public-minded brother in Christ named Robert Dowe endowed the parish with 50 pounds to cover the expenses of ringing the church bell on the morning of hangings and for "other services concerning condemned prisoners." A hand bell (displayed now in the back of the nave) was rung at midnight outside the condemned man's cell and the following charming verse was recited:
"All you that in the condemned hole do lie,
Prepare you, for tomorrow you shall die,
Watch all, and pray, the hour is drawing near,
That you before the Almighty must appear.
Examine well yourselves, in time repent,
That you may not to eternal flames be sent.
And when St. Sepulchre's bell in the morning tolls,
The Lord above have mercy on your souls.
PAST TWELVE O'CLOCK."
Which I'm sure was most reassuring. Here is the tower end of the church - couldn't get it in one frame!
And here is the rest of the nave.
The Viaduct Tavern next to Newgate. It was built over a number of cells from the notorious former prison, which may be reached through the cellar of the pub.
"What if they gave the perfect Evensong, and no one came? (at St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate)"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Newgate, London ("St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate")
Denomination: Church of England
The building: As described above, the largest parish church in the city of London, with amazing acoustics and brighter light through the windows than many churches of its type and age (dates from 1450 but was significantly rebuilt inside after the Great Fire.) The benefice dates from 1157.
The cast: The Rector (The Rev. Peter Mullen), 10 Choral Scholars (men and women), the unnamed organist, and a layperson who did just about everything else.
The date & time: Tuesday, 6 May 2008, 6:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? Practically empty - congregation of 9.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
What books did the congregation use during the service? It was straight BCP 1662, but reprinted in a small booklet along with the order for Communion.
What musical instruments were played? The Renatus Harris organ, rebuilt 1932 by Harrison & Harrison.
Did anything distract you? Just the guy a few rows in front of me who had a fairly severe neurological tic that seemed to keep him constantly moving. But that wasn't really distracting - glad he was there.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very correct, very elegant, but not pretentious at all.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Tallis, Tallis, Tallis! ("If ye love me, keep my commandments.")
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? It was saddening to see so few people there for such a marvellous - and carefully done - service.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 8. As a "City" church, they don't actually have Sunday services since no one lives in the parish boundaries. Other than that, it is a lovely place which clearly needs to be loved a bit more in return. Would love to pitch in if I could...though I'd NEVER make it in the choir!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes, but I fear for the future of places like this.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The charming older lady, June, who lit the candles, passed the plate, and greeted everyone on the way out. Very, very fine person.
Before I clock out, I did check the Cackylacky primary results, which seem to be turning out about as I had predicted. Obama did very well in the I-85 corridor (Charlotte, Concord, the Triad, the Triangle) and in eastern NC. The mountains went for Hillary except for Buncombe County (Asheville) which is the epicenter of all things crunchy. Very proud that we won Orange County!!! Also on the WRAL website was this you-can't-make-it-up story from Clayton:
"CLAYTON, N.C. — Police in Clayton are looking for a half-million dollars worth of stolen liquor, but they're not sure the thieves know what they took. According to police, a tractor-trailer was reported stolen from a lot behind a Bojangles' restaurant. Inside the trailer was an assortment of hard liquor. (...)"
Monday, May 5, 2008
5 May 2008
Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2050 BST
Catching up with some photos, first of all, here is the view of Dorset Square from my window. The area is vaguely Georgetown-esque in appearance: leafier than London in general with numerous small shops, restaurants, pubs, etc. Since this weekend and today were the May Bank Holiday, the majority of commercial places were closed.
And the hallway of the hotel right outside my room - the hotel is obviously very old in that the corridors are like rabbit warrens with numerous twists and turns. Sorry about the picture being on its side, but I can't figure out right now how to rotate it in Blogger.
After (finally) adjusting to the time difference and dealing with replacing items from my missing suitcase, I swung by Westminster Abbey for Choral Evensong. I think that for my church reports I will use the "Mystery Worshipper" format from shipoffools.com since it works so well.
"On the tourist route at Westminster Abbey"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Collegiate Church of St. Peter, Westminster, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: A huge 13th-16th-century Gothic church with numerous architectural layers. It has been the location of every coronation since 1066 as well as many other occasions of state.
The cast: An astonishing number of participants for a weekday service. 2 unnamed clergy (in office vestments with bands!!!) and 3 vergers, including one with the biggest beadle pole I have ever seen. It looked like it weighed about 40 pounds, and I wouldn't even speculate on its cost. I would be far too intimidated to carry something like that myself. Also, a choir of 22 boys.
The date & time: Monday, 5 May 2008, 5:00 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? I would guess about 200 people. The choir stalls were full, and the transepts were used as well.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Lift thine eyes to the mountains, whence cometh help." (Introit sung by the choir.)
What books did the congregation use during the service? No books, but there was a handout of the particulars for this week's services (settings, etc.) and a laminated permanent card with the generalized order of service.
What musical instruments were played?
Did anything distract you? The experience was, to me, similar to that of attempting to worship at Bruton Parish in VA. On one hand, it is a positive that something of the divine draws so many tourists to services at the Abbey. But it is still distracting to be surrounded by them.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very stiff-upper-lip, but not at all spiky. It is impossible to escape the Established nature of the Church here - whether or not this is a good thing depends on your ecclesiology.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The anthem, "Immaculate Mary, our hearts are on fire..." and the Kenneth Long Magnificat/Nunc Dimittis settings.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The fact that only myself and one other gentleman bothered to kneel during the Confession and the Prayers.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7. Obviously, the liturgy is butter-smooth and the building is incomparable from an historical standpoint. However, it would be impossible to make it one's "parish."
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Hell yeah.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Can I have two ? First, the enormous beadle pole. Second, my completely un-suave double-take caused by passing by the grave of Isaac Newton (yes, that one) on the way out.
Peace out, y'all - past time for dinner.
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2050 BST
Catching up with some photos, first of all, here is the view of Dorset Square from my window. The area is vaguely Georgetown-esque in appearance: leafier than London in general with numerous small shops, restaurants, pubs, etc. Since this weekend and today were the May Bank Holiday, the majority of commercial places were closed.
And the hallway of the hotel right outside my room - the hotel is obviously very old in that the corridors are like rabbit warrens with numerous twists and turns. Sorry about the picture being on its side, but I can't figure out right now how to rotate it in Blogger.
After (finally) adjusting to the time difference and dealing with replacing items from my missing suitcase, I swung by Westminster Abbey for Choral Evensong. I think that for my church reports I will use the "Mystery Worshipper" format from shipoffools.com since it works so well.
"On the tourist route at Westminster Abbey"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Collegiate Church of St. Peter, Westminster, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: A huge 13th-16th-century Gothic church with numerous architectural layers. It has been the location of every coronation since 1066 as well as many other occasions of state.
The cast: An astonishing number of participants for a weekday service. 2 unnamed clergy (in office vestments with bands!!!) and 3 vergers, including one with the biggest beadle pole I have ever seen. It looked like it weighed about 40 pounds, and I wouldn't even speculate on its cost. I would be far too intimidated to carry something like that myself. Also, a choir of 22 boys.
The date & time: Monday, 5 May 2008, 5:00 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? I would guess about 200 people. The choir stalls were full, and the transepts were used as well.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "Lift thine eyes to the mountains, whence cometh help." (Introit sung by the choir.)
What books did the congregation use during the service? No books, but there was a handout of the particulars for this week's services (settings, etc.) and a laminated permanent card with the generalized order of service.
What musical instruments were played?
Did anything distract you? The experience was, to me, similar to that of attempting to worship at Bruton Parish in VA. On one hand, it is a positive that something of the divine draws so many tourists to services at the Abbey. But it is still distracting to be surrounded by them.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very stiff-upper-lip, but not at all spiky. It is impossible to escape the Established nature of the Church here - whether or not this is a good thing depends on your ecclesiology.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The anthem, "Immaculate Mary, our hearts are on fire..." and the Kenneth Long Magnificat/Nunc Dimittis settings.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The fact that only myself and one other gentleman bothered to kneel during the Confession and the Prayers.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7. Obviously, the liturgy is butter-smooth and the building is incomparable from an historical standpoint. However, it would be impossible to make it one's "parish."
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Hell yeah.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Can I have two ? First, the enormous beadle pole. Second, my completely un-suave double-take caused by passing by the grave of Isaac Newton (yes, that one) on the way out.
Peace out, y'all - past time for dinner.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
3-4 May 2008
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2242 BST
Missing and Exploited Luggage
I will get the complaint out of the way first - it is now Sunday night and my checked bag is still nowhere to be seen. Fortunately, I had enough in my carry-on to get by, but will be severely annoyed if they lose my 2 best suits. Tomorrow morning I will go on to Selfridge's to pick up a few more clothes, since it seems no one is in a tremendous hurry to find my bag.
Pimp My Airport Shuttle
Despite this, I had a hilarious encounter on the express train between Heathrow and central London. Was sitting there, minding my own business, when a tall dude with braids and a long purple coat loomed up next to me in the aisle...all manner of bling clinking as he walked. For a split second, I was alarmed. And then he said in a cut-glass accent:
"May I have your ticket, please?"
Heh.
More to come soon when I upload pictures from today.
London NW1
2242 BST
Missing and Exploited Luggage
I will get the complaint out of the way first - it is now Sunday night and my checked bag is still nowhere to be seen. Fortunately, I had enough in my carry-on to get by, but will be severely annoyed if they lose my 2 best suits. Tomorrow morning I will go on to Selfridge's to pick up a few more clothes, since it seems no one is in a tremendous hurry to find my bag.
Pimp My Airport Shuttle
Despite this, I had a hilarious encounter on the express train between Heathrow and central London. Was sitting there, minding my own business, when a tall dude with braids and a long purple coat loomed up next to me in the aisle...all manner of bling clinking as he walked. For a split second, I was alarmed. And then he said in a cut-glass accent:
"May I have your ticket, please?"
Heh.
More to come soon when I upload pictures from today.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
For anyone who might Google me...
I found out last night that if you Google my name (which I won't mention on here), the second highest link is, shall we say, "adult material." Unfortunately, somewhere out there, an S&M story appears in which the female protagonist has my first name, and the male protagonist has my last name.
Yuck.
Yuck.
Finally!
What a mess! I have been trying off and on for the past few weeks to get Blogger to run correctly on my machine, which it refused to do. Finally, I tried using Firefox, and bingo! It works now. Apologies for the non-content.
We are go for launch!
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