8-9 May 2008

Georgian House Hotel
33 Unthank Road
Norwich, Norfolk NR2
1624 BST

Must catch up a bit as last night was spent in travel until very late indeed, and then I have had to catch up on some sleep before heading over to Little Walsingham tonight.

Thursday the 8th was mostly spent in enjoyable but unremarkable pursuits involving the last bits of clothing replacement. I deeply regret spending any money to enrich the execrable Mr. Al Fayed, but unfortunately Harrods did have an easily findable selection of American boat shoes in ladies' sizes so that I could replace my L.L. Bean ones at twice the cost. (Not Bean's or Sperry's, sadly, but a close Timberland approximation.) Much happier was the recovery of my suit thanks to the talents of Matthew Leonard of Jay Leonard & Co. in the City. For any peeps who may be looking for very conservative, very well-cut suits in black, blue, or dark grey for less than you might expect, look up their web site. They do men's suits as well.

Friday the 9th was taken up during the day with a trip to the parish church of St. Magnus the Martyr in Lower Thames Street.


If you don't see this sign, you may never find the door to the church!


One interesting London phenomenon is that parishes have notice boards somewhere near the church where the local councilman's name is listed and so forth. A lot of times, vestry minutes are posted as well, and can make for interesting reading.


West door is under the arch to the left.


Looking along the east-west axis from beyond the east wall.


I actually took this from about the 4th floor of an office building, out on the mezzanine. The round windows have an amusing history - originally they were deep arch-type windows like you expect to see in churches, but 17th century sound pollution was a problem. Apparently the constant stream of obscenities coming from fishwives on this side of the church disturbed the congregation. The windows on the other side are still "normal" shaped.

"Inexplicable splendor at St. Magnus the Martyr"

Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Magnus the Martyr, Lower Thames Street, City of London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: Made semi-famous by former usher T. S. Eliot ("walls of Magnus Martyr hold/inexplicable splendor of Ionian white and gold"), it is stunning on the inside and unremarkable on the outside. The church, which used to stand prominently on the approach to the old London Bridge, has now been completely enveloped by the buildings and overpasses of the modern City. Like many other City churches, it burned in the Great Fire and was rebuilt. Then, in the early 20th century, it was "spiked up" considerably to, in the words of the rector, "make it look as if the Reformation never happened." The polychrome statue of St. Magnus, complete with horned helmet and battle axe, is really something to behold.
The cast: Celebrant: Fr. Philip Warner, rector (with Roman-style chasuble and biretta), and one adult acolyte (in cassock with a very lacy surplice.)
The date & time: Friday, 9 May 2008, 12:30 PM
What was the name of the service? Low Mass
How full was the building? Congregation of 5.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Laminated card with the congregational prayers and responses printed on it - they assume you know what you are doing!
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? Not at all. It was fabulous.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Nosebleed high, but not really spiky.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Fr. Warner can say a good mass, for sure. The whole thing was good.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? This wasn't during the service, but it was a pain to find the church in the first place as it is almost invisible.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 10. 11. Fits my churchmanship, and the rector is a really great guy. It is worth the trip into the City for anyone in Greater London.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Absolutely.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Smelling incense from outside the building.

7 May 2008 - Happy Birthday, Mom !!

Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2330 BST

I want to wish my Mom, who I know looks at this page sometimes, a very happy birthday, and no, I won't say how old you are! (And happy Mother's Day, too, even though I think that's more of a scam by the greeting card industry than an actual occasion.) Be on the lookout for a smallish package.

Not much in the way of pictures from today, as a good bit of time was spent finishing the process of replacing the stuff British Airways lost. However, this morning I did have an extremely intense time at St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's is not my favorite building - I find that with all the marble it is like trying to worship God in an enormous, cavernous bathroom. A luxurious bathroom, with good acoustics, but it still feels cold to me. I do have one picture of John Wesley (in statue form) in one of the gardens surrounding St. Paul's:



What to say about +Richard Chartres, the current Bishop of London? I find that I agree with him on several things, but his ordination policies are...extremely unhelpful. Given that, though, it's obvious that "Dickie C.'s" cathedral is a serious place with serious people working there. The Canons and staff say Morning Prayer at 7:30 each morning followed by the Eucharist at 8 - SHOCK HORROR! THEY ACTUALLY OBSERVE THEIR ORDINATION VOWS!

"The Big Kids' Table at St. Paul's Cathedral"

Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: St. Paul's Cathedral, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building:
The cast: Celebrant: the Rt. Rev. Michael Colclough, Canon Pastor of St. Paul's and former Bishop of Kensington and 2 young (female!!) acolytes
The date & time: Wednesday, 7 May 2008, 8:00 AM
What was the name of the service? Holy Communion
How full was the building? "Congregation" of about 18, although the majority were clergy in cassocks.
What were the exact opening words of the service? "In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit."
What books did the congregation use during the service? Reusable booklet reprinted from the C of E's Common Worship, though no one really needed to look at it.
What musical instruments were played? None.
Did anything distract you? No.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very quiet, very serious.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? The absolute silence in such a cavernous space.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The bit during the overly-long Prayers when the celebrant prayed "for the cleansing of the Church," and it felt as if that sentiment was aimed directly across the Atlantic, though perhaps a bit north-by-east of Carolina... :-)
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 6. The architecture, again, is something of a loser in my view, but it's obvious that they are more sacramentally-focused today than in the 17th C.! It seems the sort of place that would be a blast to be a verger at, but not so great to be a member at. I really like the Canon Precentor, Lucy Plunkett, who was at the morning's service.
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Not so much glad as _impressed._
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The (unnamed) minor canon kneeling on the stone floor for 15 minutes between Morning Prayer and the Mass.

6 May 2008

Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
0030 BST

Returning to the Westminster area, this time by tube instead of by cab, I went ahead and took the obligatory tourist photo that everyone else does. Didn't linger long, though, as more interesting things were in store.



Again, I think everyone has seen pictures of Westminster Abbey before, but here's one of the north porch.



I figured that someone at the Abbey would know how to get to Wippell's, since it is nearby, but the first person I asked looked at me as if I were speaking Chinese. Someone else heard me trying to explain what Wippell's _was_, though, and came to my rescue with directions. It is absolutely non-obvious how to get there, and involves numerous zig-zagging passageways and narrow lanes. However, with persistence, I entered...THE C OF E GHETTO. SPCK, Church House, a number of book and "church-toy" stores, an outpost of SSJE...all in the same (obscure) area. This is more or less the entrance to the 'hood.



I had just been in the store for a while and didn't want to look like a dork taking a picture right up close, but the dark blue storefront in the shadows is Wippell's. The things that excite me... I still don't know what to think about Wippell's range of socks in liturgical colors. Yes, people, socks.



Several places in which to empty your bank account. You just don't see chasubles in shop windows every day. This particular display belongs to the fairly spiky Watts & Co.



Still in the 'hood. What you don't see in this picture were the hilarious teenage guys from the Westminster School. Three of them came out of a door, and one was apparently so surprised to see me that he tripped on the curb and almost fell over. Much mirth ensued. They were nice boys.



After much browsing and much buying (how I will get these books home, I have no clue) I went on to the "Square Mile" of the City of London proper. But here's the damage done so far, except for the present-type things which must remain surprises.



This was a fairly intense moment. Walking along from the tube station I saw what looked like part of a much older building, just sitting there in between several financial firms. Upon further investigation I found out what it was. Christ Church, Greyfriars was a Wren church, almost completely destroyed by firebombs in 1940. The west wall and clock tower remain, but the scorch marks are still clearly visible. The area of the former nave is being turned into a garden, and I was standing right by a plaque placed by Merrill Lynch to indicate the location of the east wall and altar, of which there is nothing left.



Today's church destination was one of the "City Parishes," Church of the Holy Sepulchre, usually called St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate. This large church has a number of interesting historical connections - these days, it is known as the "National Musicians' Church," and sponsors a bewildering array of recitals, etc., in what must be one of the most acoustically "live" spaces I have ever been in. The sound quality here is amazing - especially when compared to neo-Gothic churches in the US of similar proportions which usually cause that muddled sound. It is also the burial place of Capt. John Smith of Virginia fame, which was especially neat for me having formerly been a member of the "other John Smith parish," St. John's, Hampton, VA. On the right side of the nave is a window of three panels showing the three "little ships" of the Jamestown colonists. And, strangely enough, the needlepoint kneeler cushion for the chair next to me was a memorial to Christopher Newport (the "Newport News" guy.) Finally, it has a more grim connection as the church next to the former Newgate Prison where many unfortunate fellows spent the last days of their lives before they were hanged. In 1605, a public-minded brother in Christ named Robert Dowe endowed the parish with 50 pounds to cover the expenses of ringing the church bell on the morning of hangings and for "other services concerning condemned prisoners." A hand bell (displayed now in the back of the nave) was rung at midnight outside the condemned man's cell and the following charming verse was recited:

"All you that in the condemned hole do lie,
Prepare you, for tomorrow you shall die,
Watch all, and pray, the hour is drawing near,
That you before the Almighty must appear.
Examine well yourselves, in time repent,
That you may not to eternal flames be sent.
And when St. Sepulchre's bell in the morning tolls,
The Lord above have mercy on your souls.
PAST TWELVE O'CLOCK."

Which I'm sure was most reassuring. Here is the tower end of the church - couldn't get it in one frame!



And here is the rest of the nave.



The Viaduct Tavern next to Newgate. It was built over a number of cells from the notorious former prison, which may be reached through the cellar of the pub.



"What if they gave the perfect Evensong, and no one came? (at St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate)"

Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Newgate, London ("St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate")
Denomination: Church of England
The building: As described above, the largest parish church in the city of London, with amazing acoustics and brighter light through the windows than many churches of its type and age (dates from 1450 but was significantly rebuilt inside after the Great Fire.) The benefice dates from 1157.
The cast: The Rector (The Rev. Peter Mullen), 10 Choral Scholars (men and women), the unnamed organist, and a layperson who did just about everything else.
The date & time: Tuesday, 6 May 2008, 6:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? Practically empty - congregation of 9.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
What books did the congregation use during the service? It was straight BCP 1662, but reprinted in a small booklet along with the order for Communion.
What musical instruments were played? The Renatus Harris organ, rebuilt 1932 by Harrison & Harrison.
Did anything distract you? Just the guy a few rows in front of me who had a fairly severe neurological tic that seemed to keep him constantly moving. But that wasn't really distracting - glad he was there.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very correct, very elegant, but not pretentious at all.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Tallis, Tallis, Tallis! ("If ye love me, keep my commandments.")
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? It was saddening to see so few people there for such a marvellous - and carefully done - service.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 8. As a "City" church, they don't actually have Sunday services since no one lives in the parish boundaries. Other than that, it is a lovely place which clearly needs to be loved a bit more in return. Would love to pitch in if I could...though I'd NEVER make it in the choir!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes, but I fear for the future of places like this.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The charming older lady, June, who lit the candles, passed the plate, and greeted everyone on the way out. Very, very fine person.

Before I clock out, I did check the Cackylacky primary results, which seem to be turning out about as I had predicted. Obama did very well in the I-85 corridor (Charlotte, Concord, the Triad, the Triangle) and in eastern NC. The mountains went for Hillary except for Buncombe County (Asheville) which is the epicenter of all things crunchy. Very proud that we won Orange County!!! Also on the WRAL website was this you-can't-make-it-up story from Clayton:

"CLAYTON, N.C. — Police in Clayton are looking for a half-million dollars worth of stolen liquor, but they're not sure the thieves know what they took. According to police, a tractor-trailer was reported stolen from a lot behind a Bojangles' restaurant. Inside the trailer was an assortment of hard liquor. (...)"

5 May 2008

Dorset Square Hotel
39 Dorset Square
London NW1
2050 BST

Catching up with some photos, first of all, here is the view of Dorset Square from my window. The area is vaguely Georgetown-esque in appearance: leafier than London in general with numerous small shops, restaurants, pubs, etc. Since this weekend and today were the May Bank Holiday, the majority of commercial places were closed.



And the hallway of the hotel right outside my room - the hotel is obviously very old in that the corridors are like rabbit warrens with numerous twists and turns. Sorry about the picture being on its side, but I can't figure out right now how to rotate it in Blogger.



After (finally) adjusting to the time difference and dealing with replacing items from my missing suitcase, I swung by Westminster Abbey for Choral Evensong. I think that for my church reports I will use the "Mystery Worshipper" format from shipoffools.com since it works so well.

"On the tourist route at Westminster Abbey"

Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Collegiate Church of St. Peter, Westminster, London
Denomination: Church of England
The building: A huge 13th-16th-century Gothic church with numerous architectural layers. It has been the location of every coronation since 1066 as well as many other occasions of state.
The cast: An astonishing number of participants for a weekday service. 2 unnamed clergy (in office vestments with bands!!!) and 3 vergers, including one with the biggest beadle pole I have ever seen. It looked like it weighed about 40 pounds, and I wouldn't even speculate on its cost. I would be far too intimidated to carry something like that myself. Also, a choir of 22 boys.
The date & time: Monday, 5 May 2008, 5:00 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? I would guess about 200 people. The choir stalls were full, and the transepts were used as well.
What were the exact opening words of the service?   "Lift thine eyes to the mountains, whence cometh help." (Introit sung by the choir.)
What books did the congregation use during the service? No books, but there was a handout of the particulars for this week's services (settings, etc.) and a laminated permanent card with the generalized order of service.
What musical instruments were played?
Did anything distract you? The experience was, to me, similar to that of attempting to worship at Bruton Parish in VA. On one hand, it is a positive that something of the divine draws so many tourists to services at the Abbey. But it is still distracting to be surrounded by them.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very stiff-upper-lip, but not at all spiky. It is impossible to escape the Established nature of the Church here - whether or not this is a good thing depends on your ecclesiology.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven?   The anthem, "Immaculate Mary, our hearts are on fire..." and the Kenneth Long Magnificat/Nunc Dimittis settings.
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? The fact that only myself and one other gentleman bothered to kneel during the Confession and the Prayers.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 7. Obviously, the liturgy is butter-smooth and the building is incomparable from an historical standpoint. However, it would be impossible to make it one's "parish."
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Hell yeah.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? Can I have two ? First, the enormous beadle pole. Second, my completely un-suave double-take caused by passing by the grave of Isaac Newton (yes, that one) on the way out.

Peace out, y'all - past time for dinner.