39 Dorset Square
London NW1
0030 BST
Returning to the Westminster area, this time by tube instead of by cab, I went ahead and took the obligatory tourist photo that everyone else does. Didn't linger long, though, as more interesting things were in store.
Again, I think everyone has seen pictures of Westminster Abbey before, but here's one of the north porch.
I figured that someone at the Abbey would know how to get to Wippell's, since it is nearby, but the first person I asked looked at me as if I were speaking Chinese. Someone else heard me trying to explain what Wippell's _was_, though, and came to my rescue with directions. It is absolutely non-obvious how to get there, and involves numerous zig-zagging passageways and narrow lanes. However, with persistence, I entered...THE C OF E GHETTO. SPCK, Church House, a number of book and "church-toy" stores, an outpost of SSJE...all in the same (obscure) area. This is more or less the entrance to the 'hood.
I had just been in the store for a while and didn't want to look like a dork taking a picture right up close, but the dark blue storefront in the shadows is Wippell's. The things that excite me... I still don't know what to think about Wippell's range of socks in liturgical colors. Yes, people, socks.
Several places in which to empty your bank account. You just don't see chasubles in shop windows every day. This particular display belongs to the fairly spiky Watts & Co.
Still in the 'hood. What you don't see in this picture were the hilarious teenage guys from the Westminster School. Three of them came out of a door, and one was apparently so surprised to see me that he tripped on the curb and almost fell over. Much mirth ensued. They were nice boys.
After much browsing and much buying (how I will get these books home, I have no clue) I went on to the "Square Mile" of the City of London proper. But here's the damage done so far, except for the present-type things which must remain surprises.
This was a fairly intense moment. Walking along from the tube station I saw what looked like part of a much older building, just sitting there in between several financial firms. Upon further investigation I found out what it was. Christ Church, Greyfriars was a Wren church, almost completely destroyed by firebombs in 1940. The west wall and clock tower remain, but the scorch marks are still clearly visible. The area of the former nave is being turned into a garden, and I was standing right by a plaque placed by Merrill Lynch to indicate the location of the east wall and altar, of which there is nothing left.
Today's church destination was one of the "City Parishes," Church of the Holy Sepulchre, usually called St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate. This large church has a number of interesting historical connections - these days, it is known as the "National Musicians' Church," and sponsors a bewildering array of recitals, etc., in what must be one of the most acoustically "live" spaces I have ever been in. The sound quality here is amazing - especially when compared to neo-Gothic churches in the US of similar proportions which usually cause that muddled sound. It is also the burial place of Capt. John Smith of Virginia fame, which was especially neat for me having formerly been a member of the "other John Smith parish," St. John's, Hampton, VA. On the right side of the nave is a window of three panels showing the three "little ships" of the Jamestown colonists. And, strangely enough, the needlepoint kneeler cushion for the chair next to me was a memorial to Christopher Newport (the "Newport News" guy.) Finally, it has a more grim connection as the church next to the former Newgate Prison where many unfortunate fellows spent the last days of their lives before they were hanged. In 1605, a public-minded brother in Christ named Robert Dowe endowed the parish with 50 pounds to cover the expenses of ringing the church bell on the morning of hangings and for "other services concerning condemned prisoners." A hand bell (displayed now in the back of the nave) was rung at midnight outside the condemned man's cell and the following charming verse was recited:
"All you that in the condemned hole do lie,
Prepare you, for tomorrow you shall die,
Watch all, and pray, the hour is drawing near,
That you before the Almighty must appear.
Examine well yourselves, in time repent,
That you may not to eternal flames be sent.
And when St. Sepulchre's bell in the morning tolls,
The Lord above have mercy on your souls.
PAST TWELVE O'CLOCK."
Which I'm sure was most reassuring. Here is the tower end of the church - couldn't get it in one frame!
And here is the rest of the nave.
The Viaduct Tavern next to Newgate. It was built over a number of cells from the notorious former prison, which may be reached through the cellar of the pub.
"What if they gave the perfect Evensong, and no one came? (at St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate)"
Mystery Worshipper: Civilized Engineer
The church: Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Newgate, London ("St. Sepulchre-without-Newgate")
Denomination: Church of England
The building: As described above, the largest parish church in the city of London, with amazing acoustics and brighter light through the windows than many churches of its type and age (dates from 1450 but was significantly rebuilt inside after the Great Fire.) The benefice dates from 1157.
The cast: The Rector (The Rev. Peter Mullen), 10 Choral Scholars (men and women), the unnamed organist, and a layperson who did just about everything else.
The date & time: Tuesday, 6 May 2008, 6:15 PM
What was the name of the service? Choral Evensong
How full was the building? Practically empty - congregation of 9.
What were the exact opening words of the service?
What books did the congregation use during the service? It was straight BCP 1662, but reprinted in a small booklet along with the order for Communion.
What musical instruments were played? The Renatus Harris organ, rebuilt 1932 by Harrison & Harrison.
Did anything distract you? Just the guy a few rows in front of me who had a fairly severe neurological tic that seemed to keep him constantly moving. But that wasn't really distracting - glad he was there.
Was the worship stiff-upper-lip, happy clappy, or what? Very correct, very elegant, but not pretentious at all.
Which part of the service was like being in heaven? Tallis, Tallis, Tallis! ("If ye love me, keep my commandments.")
And which part was like being in... er... the other place? It was saddening to see so few people there for such a marvellous - and carefully done - service.
How would you feel about making this church your regular (where 10 = ecstatic, 0 = terminal)? 8. As a "City" church, they don't actually have Sunday services since no one lives in the parish boundaries. Other than that, it is a lovely place which clearly needs to be loved a bit more in return. Would love to pitch in if I could...though I'd NEVER make it in the choir!
Did the service make you feel glad to be a Christian? Yes, but I fear for the future of places like this.
What one thing will you remember about all this in seven days' time? The charming older lady, June, who lit the candles, passed the plate, and greeted everyone on the way out. Very, very fine person.
Before I clock out, I did check the Cackylacky primary results, which seem to be turning out about as I had predicted. Obama did very well in the I-85 corridor (Charlotte, Concord, the Triad, the Triangle) and in eastern NC. The mountains went for Hillary except for Buncombe County (Asheville) which is the epicenter of all things crunchy. Very proud that we won Orange County!!! Also on the WRAL website was this you-can't-make-it-up story from Clayton:
"CLAYTON, N.C. — Police in Clayton are looking for a half-million dollars worth of stolen liquor, but they're not sure the thieves know what they took. According to police, a tractor-trailer was reported stolen from a lot behind a Bojangles' restaurant. Inside the trailer was an assortment of hard liquor. (...)"
